Too bad, so sad, or how my new Harmony needle broke

So I was happily knitting along on the spanish christening blanket today during break. Here is how far I am:
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Looks are deceiving, because that is practically an entire ball of yarn. It is really really long! (sorry about the poor picture quality, work camera doesn’t always cooperate.)
I look down at the end of a row and I see that my knitpicks harmony tips size US 9 look like they are separating. First I think it is the join, so I go to screw it back in, when I realize, it isn’t the join, it is the base of the wood where it connects to the metal!
I emailed knitpicks, waiting to hear back. I also looked it up, seems that there are a few people having this issue. I hope it gets taken care of soon because I really really adore my harmony needles!

ETA:  Knitpicks got right back to me, they are sending out new needles.  They want me to keep or throw the ones I have.
Once again, poor pictures but you can see what I am referring to.
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So, we all know that I cannot stop knitting while waiting for new size 9’s, and I don’t have any at home. So I ask favorite coworker if there is any super glue around. I am gonna glue those suckers back together!

Indeed, we have super glue. I take the container, squeeze and squeeze and nothing comes out. I then assume it isn’t open, so I poke the tip numerous times. Continue to give it my all in the application department to no avail. Finally I discover that I need to remove the tip to puncture the seal. OK, done, now on to glue the needles back together. So I have been squeezing as hard as I can for some time now, and apparently it doesn’t translate that I could now calm down. I squeeze too hard and have super glue all over my hands and the needle. Oops! My fingers are sticking together quickly and I am worried that the glue is going to make my needles tacky. I grab a tissue, start to wipe. Um, so now I have tissue sticking to my hands (not to the needles thank goodnes) Brilliant move Shells! Finally I decide it might be best to put the needles down and do something about my hands. Well as most of you know, that glue isn’t coming off any time soon! Trouble is, I am not entirely sure it helped the needles themselves! (I’d say *facepalm* here but then I would probably have glue on my forehead too!)

“This moment brought to you by “Smooth Moves, from Shells”

Making the Arms Holey, from Nick

No we are not going to have them blessed. We are going to drill holes in them for the pegs. A whole lot of them! The idea is to give the swift lots of flexibility for different sized Hanks. BTW, why is called a Hank? Why not a Matt or Bill? Was it Hank’s idea to loop yarn this way? If so good job Hank!

After a few emails back and forth with Shells, she decided that the swift should be able to handle a Hank up to about 100 inches in circumference. After doing some quick math we settled on the last holes to be 17” from center, which will handle a hank of 96”. Close enough. The 1st holes will be 3” from center. Which is smaller than what she needs, but you never know when you might find some exotic yarn from Zimbabwe that comes in Mini-Hanks. From 3” to 17” there will be a hole every inch. Turns out the swift will have a total of 60 holes! Jeeez…

Plugging the Pythagorean Theorem (Remember when you said, When will I never need to know that?) into an excel sheet I calculate the hank circumference for every peg position.

Inches From Center Cir of Hank (Inches)
3 16.97
4 22.63
5 28.28
6 33.94
7 39.60
8 45.25
9 50.91
10 56.57
11 62.23
12 67.88
13 73.54
14 79.20
15 84.85
16 90.51
17 96.17

Shells approves, so lets get started…

The 1st step is to measure the hole positions from the center. I use tape over the wood so I don’t have to remove pencil marks later.
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Next I use a square to mark the lines
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Then I use my digital calipers to find the center of each hole and mark them
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Like all other holes these start with making a small indention with my hand drill
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Now I can remove the tape to expose the indentions.
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Off to the drill press to make pilot holes.

The pegs are going to stick up about 8” and insert into the arms about 1/2”. The cool thing about a drill press is you can set the depth of the drill bit with a lock. This ensures all 60 holes will be the same depth. Locking in the depth also eliminates the chance of drilling through the arms. Also a properly set up drill press will produce a perfectly perpendicular hole every time with no thinking involved! BTW, If you don’t know what perpendicular means then you were not paying attention in 4th grade geometry class. Go look it up!

Here is a pic me setting the drill bit depth.
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The indentions I made help guide the tip for the small drill bit for very accurate placement of the holes.
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Here are the arms with the pilot holes all bored out. Thinking ahead I’m going to wait to make the final 1/2” holes until the varnish is applied to the wood. The fit of the hole / peg should be snug and precise. If I drill the final holes now then brush 3 coats of varnish on the arms it’s inevitable that some varnish will fall into the holes and mess with the peg fitment. The pilot holes will act as place holders and if they get varnish in them it does not matter.

BTW, that is not a typo. The pegs are going to be 1/2” now, not 3/8”. More on that later.
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Here’s a close up of the wood grain. I am looking forward to seeing how the varnish will pull out the grain!

Next we’ll round off the ends of the arms…
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